COOL: Trullo, N1

Posted on April 2, 2012 by

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You may have past Trullo, on Highbury Corner, several times. As you fly off the roundabout, it catches the eye just a little too late.
EIC grew sick of this happening, especially as head chef Tim Siadatan was an early graduate of Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen. So finally, we stopped the car one sunny Sunday, got out and went in. It was pretty easy really.

What panicked us soon after sitting down was the Sunday Lunch ‘no-choice’ menu. As long as you turn up with £30 and an appetite, you can look forward to a delicious four course meal.
However, it’s quite a commitment as you’re are at the mercy of whichever four plates chef has decided on that Sunday.
Great if you love everything. Not ideal if you don’t.

Fortunately, EIC loves most edible goods. Especially a plate of fennel salami, cheese and olives to start. So the aforementioned panic was short-lived. But a bit of prosciutto wouldn’t have gone amiss.

Perhaps a risk to give chefs such free reign on a Sunday, but this style of dining works brilliantly for large groups of friends and families alike. Y’know – when everyone’s too busy catching up to decide what to eat and then suddenly the waitress appears and everyone tells her to go away and come back. But we were three, so it might have been nice to have another option for at least one of the courses. That said – the courses on offer were not to be sniffed at. In fact, we’re keen to go back to try the fishy ones, especially as Trullo sources its fish from our favourite, Mersea Island.

Previous dishes on a Sunday have included tagliarini with brown shrimp, yellow and green courgette and chilli; roast poussin with corn puree, marinated Italian peppers, fresh almond and parsley salad; mackerel with farro pilaf, marinated Italian peppers, black olives and sweet herbs; beef onglet with rainbow chard and horseradish.

EIC’s first course was polenta with mussels. A powerful combination of texture and flavour that we hadn’t tried before. If we’re honest, none of our party was hugely peckish so the portion was ideal. Good thing too, because the main that followed was bigger than a dinner you’d cook for yourself having had no breakfast or lunch. Lamb. Perfectly cooked, perfectly seasoned.

Dessert was a creamy tiramisu. Made that day, like everything else in the restaurant.

Icing on the cake – or rather, the Tiramisu – was a kiss from Sam James, the restaurant manager. He didn’t need to do it and still, nobody knows why he did. But he did.

Try Trullo. We’ll be going back. If not for food, then for Sam.

Trullo, 300 – 302 St Paul’s Road, N1 2LH
Dinner – Monday to Saturday: 6:30 – 10:30pm
Lunch – Monday to Saturday: 12:30pm – 2:45pm
Sunday: 12:30pm – 3pm (fixed, no-choice 4 course menu £30 per head)

Posted in: COOL