UNCOOL: Mishkin’s – ‘a kind of jewish deli’ (yeaah but only in name)

Posted on January 13, 2012 by


They own a handful of the hippest restaurants in LondonPolpo, Polpetto, Spuntino and Da Polpo but have Russell Norman and Richard Beatty got it spot-on with their latest venture, Mishkin’s? Looking like a no.

Maybe it’s because we love Carnegie‘s in new york more than we love our parents.
Maybe it’s because some of us are in fact Jews and know a jewish deli when we smell one
Or, maybe it’s because the portions are TOO SMALL.

…but Mishkin’s left us a little bit deflated.

I wasn’t expecting all the dishes to look like Woody Allen or anything, but there was something really non jew-ish and non NYC-ish about this place.
What should have been a room stinking of cream cheese and pickles with the occasional whiff of fishy boiled beef brisket, was a burger smelling, mock lower-eastside diner serving microscopic blobs of Eastern Euro-Polski-jew cuisine on plates smaller than a ramekin. My dad’s eyes nearly fell out his head. Again.

Our issues…
The chicken soup was underseasoned and served in a petri dish
The kneidlach (mazoball dumplings) were too soft and tasted of air.
The latkes were covered in oil (you know when you chuck a load of flour in a pan of sizzling fat?) and were small but that was OK because if you ate big ones you’d be CORONARY DUST in less than 5.
The Reuben.. THE REUBEN… was quite yum, but looked like something my mum would give to one of my friends as a snack. A friend she HATED.
The chopped liver was lovely – but how far wrong can you go with chopped liver? I make chopped liver when I’m ill. It’s that easy.
The steamed beef burger was also lovely – but again – do they think they’re feeding borrowers???

When I go for tapas, I expect incy wee portions and therefore order a fair bit. But when I go to ‘a kind of jewish deli’ that’s meant to be London’s answer to Carnegies, I wear trackie-bottoms in preparation of piled-high-beef-on-rye that’ll bloat me to such a giggly extent, I can’t get up from the table. ‘NO, I can’t get up’.

‘hahahah no let me sit for a bit!’

But that didn’t happen.

I suspect Norman and Beatty are hoping Mishkin’s will receive a piggyback from the other four successful restaurants, but I’m becoming ever so slightly miffed at the rate these edgy little joints are popping up everywhere.

I would call this restaurant Schmaltz-etto – because at least then you know what you’re going to get.

25 Catherine Street, WC2B 5JS

020 7240 2078

Posted in: COOL