COOL: Brawn, E2

Posted on February 15, 2013 by



Pig is having a serious moment, guys. If Pig was a girl at school, she’d be so popular right now, everyone would want to sit next to her at lunch, licking her piggy face. They’d better watch out though, cos’ Pig’s not into crumby school politics. She’s a idzepedze woman who’ll turn her delicious snout up at anything and anyone. You know why? Because if you’re a pig, you can take that attitude these days. Cos’ you’re not all about bacon anymore. You’re more than that. Much more, and finally people are appreciating this. In fact, Pig, yeah, is the Victoria Beckham of cuisine. A late arrival to its own complexity, (ok that’s pushing it) best with a bit of fat round the edges, but way more fashionable lean. S’true.

Brawn, off Colombia Rd, is a trendy little joint making the most of the Pig, as well as other meats. They’ve gone with that understated cool type of vibe, not too pricey, with little glasses and little tables and little waiters. Ours was actually very helpful when it came to the wine which was or-gu-nuc. I think that means it flows naturally from a waterfall somewhere?! How cool is that??? These write ups get more and more researched.

There’s food here guaranteed to make you do that annoying surprised face to your partner, with every bite. I see people do it to each other everywhere – like they’re expecting the food to be rank after a string of five star reviews?!?  We’re all guilty of it I guess. Like with the Brawn starter, for example, which sounds horrific, B-R-A-W-N, you’re almost expecting pig brains. But thankfully it’s just pig face and feet(!) Very piggy and thready and facey and feety. The Nduja scotch egg, (Nduja is a spicy spreadable sausage made with pork) nearly had me running to a postcard shop. It’s warm and caves in as you put your fork in it and from the steaming well emanates the sound of children crying for joy.

The hand chopped Tuscan beef is chunky. (NB. Steak Tartare seems to have lost its French title at these new joints in London. New trend? COOL. Because it’s 2013 and London doesn’t need to copy France anymore! *British music*) Now, we appreciate that it’s kinda hard to go wrong with raw beef, but the seasoning is important and these guys added Rosemary. GENIUS.

Onglet, Dauphinois, Shallot

Highlights were the Onglet  (see pic), Clams with burnt leaks in a beurre blanc (a drinky dippy sauce for bread and stuff. We actually dipped the onglet in it which is a very uncouth and insatiable thing to do), but the star of the show was the Duck Hearts, Chanterelles and Parsnip Puree which we have agreed, I cannot do justice in words. So you’ll just have to go. It really is that good.

Unfortunately we didn’t have time (or room) for pudding. But we really felt old piggy tits had had her way with us that Saturday night, and for a decent price. (approx. £90) (nice toilet too). We’d like to nominate  Brawn for an EIC best restaurant in East London award, which we’ll make official …. later.

Brawn can be found at 49 Columbia Rd, Bethnal Green E2 7RG

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Posted in: COOL